- MMU2S Setup and Inspection
- English manuals
- Filament not being pulled out enough by MMU2s - getting stuck in selector
- Assembly manuals
- Prusa Research i3 MK2.5S Multi Material Upgrade 2S User Manual
MMU2S Setup and InspectionMy MMU2s isn't pulling enough of the filament out retracting it? It always now leaves about 1cm sticking out, and when the selector moves, it pushes the filaments over, bending them All the hardware, tube lengths are stock. This is my thought as well. In my efforts I found that the MMU seems to be really finicky about drag on the filament. Switching to the auto-rewind spools helped greatly over the stock trays. I will try the longer PTFE tubes again in the future when I get a more permanent placement solution for the spool holders. I think the issue is simply that they are too long for how close the holders are to the printer and this caused them to have some tight bends that added just enough drag to be an issue. Thanks guys, I'm still struggling, but I'm already using Auto rewind spools. I am still using the original Prusa tubes though, which are quite long, and my spools are quite close to the printer. Maybe I should investigate this. I have another issue now with the printer helpfully unloading filament shortly after it's loaded and printed a few lines in the wipe tower. Even though the IR sensor info displays "1" the whole time. Yeah just swap the long tubes for the short ones and give that a shot. My spools are only 6" from the rear of my printer so the long tubes twisted all over the place. I suspect that when I determine my final setup that I'll be able to properly size tubes that will work to contain the filament from end to end. After ejecting the filament do you see any ground down areas? Given how many people have had issues, however, I suspect the IR sensor and how it interacts with the idler door. It seems to be common that everything looks good when you set it up, but then once the printer starts moving you get these false events. I couldn't get through a 20x20x20mm cube without multiple run out events. After replacing my idler door and getting the arm dialed in I could then print the cube with the sensor enabled and have not had any more issues. Forum Icons: Forum contains no unread posts Forum contains unread posts Mark all read. Please Login or Register. English forum. Assembly and first prints troubleshooting. Filament not being pulled out enough by MMU2s - getting stuck in selector. Last Post. Estimable Member. Hi all, My MMU2s isn't pulling enough of the filament out retracting it? Please help! Log in to be able to post. I've tried the "Individual filament calibration", testing now. Noble Member. OR finda is in a funk.
Our first 3D printer enclosure became incredibly popular — and naturally, once we released our new Multi Material Upgrade 2. If you have no experience with 3D printer enclosures, let us give you a quick tour of their benefits:. Prusamentwe highly recommend keeping the front door partially open to give the nozzle or more specifically — the heatbreak enough airflow for sufficient cooling. High temperatures combined with PLA materials can lead to partially clogged nozzle. Increasing the temperature around the printer and creating a stable environment inside the box will improve the bed adhesion and prevent layer warping. Either way, you will certainly appreciate the compact configuration of all the components. Plus, the size of the Lack table is pretty much ideal for our 3D printers. What if you already made an enclosure? What if you already paid for the acrylic panels? Instead, we decided to modify the original concept and improve it. All printed parts are different, though. On the other hand, the enclosure comes with a number of useful new features, such as a semi-automatic locking mechanism of the lid, magnetic hinges and a small compartment for various tools. The primary goal was to design the enclosure in such a way that anyone will be able to build it at home, using printed parts, regular fasteners and easily accessible materials in general. Non-standard elements are kept to a bare minimum. So, those were the challenges we had to overcome. Now for the benefits of our solution:. We recommend printing the plastic parts with PETG filament — e. You can use our pre-made G-codes, which are already tested and, of course, sliced with the optimal settings. Or download the. Several parts come with a mounting bracket, that will help you position these components and secure them in place. Please, do not remove the mounting brackets before you secure the parts in place. However, do not forget to remove the support material, so the parts can be put together. You need to decide whether to remove the power supply from the printer outside the enclosure or leave it on the printer inside the enclosuredepending on the intended use of the machine. In this case, it is advisable to place the PSU outside the enclosure. On the other hand, leaving the PSU on the printer will make it easier to remove the printer from the enclosure. Have you decided to keep the PSU inside the enclosure? Skip the next assembly step. Otherwise, follow the instructions below. Turn it upside down, so you have access to the underside light brown color. Use a ruler and a pen to draw a rectangular shape with the dimensions and placement based on the photo above. Take a snap-off knife and a ruler and start by cutting a rectangular opening. Take the printed parts and put them around the opening to prevent the paper infill from falling onto the printer. Throughout this step, make sure that the table top is facing the right way. The cutout is not directly in the middle! Every part that needs to be secured to the table top comes with a mounting bracket that will help you align it and secure it in place. Before you secure the parts with screws, we recommend to drill the holes first — use a 2mm drill bit.
Filament not being pulled out enough by MMU2s - getting stuck in selector
It allows to use up to five different filaments in one layer. Previously, I could do some multi-color prints by switching the filament at layer changes. This also meant that I had to be present to do the manual swap. The MMU now allows not only to swap filament on its own but also to use different filaments colors or even structural different filaments within each layer. The upgrade comes as a kit, so I had to assemble it my self. Prusa also included the upgrade to the i3 MK3 S in the bundle, which changes the construction around the hotend and the hotend fan position. Therefore, the assembly started with the disassembly of the extruder to upgrade it. All in all, it took several hours, just for the extruder before even getting to the MMU unit itself. Together I would say it took me even longer than the initial assembly of the Prusa printer last year. This might also be because the extruder took the longest time there as well and here it had to be disassembled and rebuild completely. After the extruder had been done, the MMU unit got assembled. Here I did a small mistake by cracking the selector part as I used a little bit to much force at the screws. For now, I glued it, but I will print a spare part later, just to be on the save side if it cracks again. The provided step by step guide was excellent, as usual. Just the German translation was not finished yet so I switched to the English one anyway. Even more, they got referenced in the manual quite often which always lets me smile. Some of the steps were a bit confusing in the manual as it tries to handle all possible combinations like if you already have a Prusa i3 MK2. So sometimes it might happen to hit the wrong link for the next instructions or to miss a step for your own setup. Other than that, the guide was very detailed and accurate. Another thing I don't like is the construction of the buffer at all. The buffer is the black box you can see behind my printer and it is used to store the filament that got retracted from the nozzle at a filament change. The idea behind it is good, just the execution is not. Also, it requires a lot of space, which is very limited to my setup. Therefore, I am printing an alternative solution right now to try out.
After successfully finishing the build of your Original Prusa MMU2S upgrade and going through the Preflight check chapter of the manual, there are still a few things you might want to check before putting your newly upgraded printer to use. This article focuses on the most common mistakes of the assembly and mechanical calibration of the Multi Material Upgrade unit, mounted on the frame. The five bearings that are protruding from the idler cylinder must be centered and spinning freely on their shafts. You can check that by rotating the idler by hand when the printer is off. The solution is to move the idler barrel a little bit away from the idler body and thus extend the gap. Around 1 mm of space on both sides is more than enough. Keep in mind that these two M3x10 screws might also get loose over time, so check the tightening every few dozen print hours. Another potential issue for you to verify is whether the two screws are tightened against the flat part of the extruder motor shaft. See the last bullet point of this step in the assembly manual. The filaments are being pushed through the MMU unit using 5 hobbed pulleys mounted on a long pulley motor axis. The grub screws of these pulleys must be facing to the left, away from the Pulley motor. The pulleys must be perfectly aligned with the filament holesas shown in the photo below, and well tightened by the small black grub screw against the flat part of the Pulley motor axis. If any of these 3 conditions are not met, the filament will be loaded or unloaded slower than expected. After the filament is grabbed by the hobbed pulley, it is pushed into one of the five 19 mm 0. These tubes are chamfered on one end, which provides some extra space for the unloaded filament, as the tip might be slightly thicker than the rest of the filament. That is why the chamfered end must be facing outaway from the pulleys, as explained in this step of the Assembly manual. Also, make sure the screws are not tightened too much. The idea here is to avoid any deformation of the long PTFE tubes, which would cause unwanted friction of the filament. Also please note that all of the long PTFE tubes have to be inserted all the way in. There is a circular hole for each PTFE tube in the pulley body, you should be able to push at least 0. The corresponding steps in the assembly manual are these: Step 13 and Step Make sure the little blade that is supposed to cut filament strings is secured in place with two M3x10 screws that are tightened enough. The blade also has to be placed exactly as shown on the photo below. Otherwise, the blade can slip out of its socket and block the movement of the selector. See this step in the manual. As mentioned above, in case the PTFE tubes are squished or bent too much, it might cause excessive resistance to the filament moving inside. The spool holders shouldn't be too close to each other. Ideally, the spools should be positioned as described and shown in the handbook:. Just like the extruder idler spring, its MMU2S counterparts need to be tightened just right. If the idler springs are over-tightened, it may cause the idler motor to skip. Over-tightening also causes the pulleys to be choked with filament. To find the perfect tension, tighten the screw about 0.