Prusa mmu2s assembly manual

About the Product

Our first 3D printer enclosure became incredibly popular — and naturally, once we released our new Multi Material Upgrade 2. If you have no experience with 3D printer enclosures, let us give you a quick tour of their benefits:. Prusamentwe highly recommend keeping the front door partially open to give the nozzle or more specifically — the heatbreak enough airflow for sufficient cooling. High temperatures combined with PLA materials can lead to partially clogged nozzle. Increasing the temperature around the printer and creating a stable environment inside the box will improve the bed adhesion and prevent layer warping. Either way, you will certainly appreciate the compact configuration of all the components. Plus, the size of the Lack table is pretty much ideal for our 3D printers. What if you already made an enclosure? What if you already paid for the acrylic panels? Instead, we decided to modify the original concept and improve it. All printed parts are different, though. On the other hand, the enclosure comes with a number of useful new features, such as a semi-automatic locking mechanism of the lid, magnetic hinges and a small compartment for various tools. The primary goal was to design the enclosure in such a way that anyone will be able to build it at home, using printed parts, regular fasteners and easily accessible materials in general. Non-standard elements are kept to a bare minimum. So, those were the challenges we had to overcome. Now for the benefits of our solution:. We recommend printing the plastic parts with PETG filament — e. You can use our pre-made G-codes, which are already tested and, of course, sliced with the optimal settings. Or download the. Several parts come with a mounting bracket, that will help you position these components and secure them in place. Please, do not remove the mounting brackets before you secure the parts in place. However, do not forget to remove the support material, so the parts can be put together. You need to decide whether to remove the power supply from the printer outside the enclosure or leave it on the printer inside the enclosuredepending on the intended use of the machine. In this case, it is advisable to place the PSU outside the enclosure. On the other hand, leaving the PSU on the printer will make it easier to remove the printer from the enclosure. Have you decided to keep the PSU inside the enclosure? Skip the next assembly step. Otherwise, follow the instructions below. Turn it upside down, so you have access to the underside light brown color. Use a ruler and a pen to draw a rectangular shape with the dimensions and placement based on the photo above. Take a snap-off knife and a ruler and start by cutting a rectangular opening. Take the printed parts and put them around the opening to prevent the paper infill from falling onto the printer.

Assemble MK3S and MMU2S at same time

After successfully finishing the build of your Original Prusa MMU2S upgrade and going through the Preflight check chapter of the manual, there are still a few things you might want to check before putting your newly upgraded printer to use. This article focuses on the most common mistakes of the assembly and mechanical calibration of the Multi Material Upgrade unit, mounted on the frame. The five bearings that are protruding from the idler cylinder must be centered and spinning freely on their shafts. You can check that by rotating the idler by hand when the printer is off. The solution is to move the idler barrel a little bit away from the idler body and thus extend the gap. Around 1 mm of space on both sides is more than enough. Keep in mind that these two M3x10 screws might also get loose over time, so check the tightening every few dozen print hours. Another potential issue for you to verify is whether the two screws are tightened against the flat part of the extruder motor shaft. See the last bullet point of this step in the assembly manual. The filaments are being pushed through the MMU unit using 5 hobbed pulleys mounted on a long pulley motor axis. The grub screws of these pulleys must be facing to the left, away from the Pulley motor. The pulleys must be perfectly aligned with the filament holesas shown in the photo below, and well tightened by the small black grub screw against the flat part of the Pulley motor axis. If any of these 3 conditions are not met, the filament will be loaded or unloaded slower than expected. After the filament is grabbed by the hobbed pulley, it is pushed into one of the five 19 mm 0. These tubes are chamfered on one end, which provides some extra space for the unloaded filament, as the tip might be slightly thicker than the rest of the filament. That is why the chamfered end must be facing outaway from the pulleys, as explained in this step of the Assembly manual. Also, make sure the screws are not tightened too much. The idea here is to avoid any deformation of the long PTFE tubes, which would cause unwanted friction of the filament. Also please note that all of the long PTFE tubes have to be inserted all the way in. There is a circular hole for each PTFE tube in the pulley body, you should be able to push at least 0. The corresponding steps in the assembly manual are these: Step 13 and Step Make sure the little blade that is supposed to cut filament strings is secured in place with two M3x10 screws that are tightened enough. The blade also has to be placed exactly as shown on the photo below. Otherwise, the blade can slip out of its socket and block the movement of the selector. See this step in the manual. As mentioned above, in case the PTFE tubes are squished or bent too much, it might cause excessive resistance to the filament moving inside. The spool holders shouldn't be too close to each other. Ideally, the spools should be positioned as described and shown in the handbook:. Just like the extruder idler spring, its MMU2S counterparts need to be tightened just right. If the idler springs are over-tightened, it may cause the idler motor to skip. Over-tightening also causes the pulleys to be choked with filament. To find the perfect tension, tighten the screw about 0. If your MMU 2. Loosen the two screws one on each side of the MMU2 unit a little bit and try again. Always keep in mind the selector must be free of any leftover filament and dust. Check that the sensor is working properly. If this is not the case, perform the calibration of the IR filament sensor. If you have a question about something that isn't covered here, check out our additional resources. And if that doesn't do the trick, you can send an inquiry through the button below.

Filament not being pulled out enough by MMU2s - getting stuck in selector

My MMU2s isn't pulling enough of the filament out retracting it? It always now leaves about 1cm sticking out, and when the selector moves, it pushes the filaments over, bending them All the hardware, tube lengths are stock. This is my thought as well. In my efforts I found that the MMU seems to be really finicky about drag on the filament. Switching to the auto-rewind spools helped greatly over the stock trays. I will try the longer PTFE tubes again in the future when I get a more permanent placement solution for the spool holders. I think the issue is simply that they are too long for how close the holders are to the printer and this caused them to have some tight bends that added just enough drag to be an issue. Thanks guys, I'm still struggling, but I'm already using Auto rewind spools. I am still using the original Prusa tubes though, which are quite long, and my spools are quite close to the printer. Maybe I should investigate this. I have another issue now with the printer helpfully unloading filament shortly after it's loaded and printed a few lines in the wipe tower. Even though the IR sensor info displays "1" the whole time. Yeah just swap the long tubes for the short ones and give that a shot. My spools are only 6" from the rear of my printer so the long tubes twisted all over the place. I suspect that when I determine my final setup that I'll be able to properly size tubes that will work to contain the filament from end to end. After ejecting the filament do you see any ground down areas? Given how many people have had issues, however, I suspect the IR sensor and how it interacts with the idler door. It seems to be common that everything looks good when you set it up, but then once the printer starts moving you get these false events. I couldn't get through a 20x20x20mm cube without multiple run out events. After replacing my idler door and getting the arm dialed in I could then print the cube with the sensor enabled and have not had any more issues. Forum Icons: Forum contains no unread posts Forum contains unread posts Mark all read. Please Login or Register. English forum. Assembly and first prints troubleshooting. Filament not being pulled out enough by MMU2s - getting stuck in selector. Last Post. Estimable Member. Hi all, My MMU2s isn't pulling enough of the filament out retracting it? Please help! Log in to be able to post.

Prusa Research i3 MK2.5S Multi Material Upgrade 2S User Manual

Thank you again for purchasing a 3D printer directly from its developer Josef Prusa. Your purchase supports us in further development. Josef Prusa, one of the core developers of open source project RepRap and creator of Prusa i3, started Prusa Research as a one-man startup in The company rapidly expanded and now has a team of more than people. Currently, we ship more than Original Prusa i3 printers per month to over countries directly from Prague. And we continue to improve both user experience and reliability of 3D printing every day. However, a 3D printer is not a maintenance-free machine - at least not yet. You need to learn a few things about how a 3D printer operatesso you can enjoy trouble-free printing or even solve an occasional problem, such as a clogged nozzle. But don't worry! Most problems are really easy to fix. Plus, we are here to help you. This page contains links to a whole bunch of useful videos and articleswhich will guide you through your first steps in the 3D printing world. There are also unofficial user groups on Facebook, where makers help each other. Are you struggling with filament loading? How should the first layer calibration look? In this video, Josef Prusa himself will help you set up your printer. Based on the examination of printers received back from the customers, we compiled a list of the most common problems causing poor print quality. Check them out and improve your 3D prints today! Follow us on YouTube. This and four more quick tips are ready for you in this article. We will demonstrate the benefits of smaller and larger nozzles in real situations. The single best way how to keep any 3D printer running all the time is to provide it with routine maintenance. What should you care for? Find out solutions in this article. In this article, we will take a closer look at difficulties related to filament extrusion and how they affect the quality of your prints. Do you want to try them? We will tell you how to repair them. There is a one surprisingly cheap way to do that. But in some cases, tree supports could brings you a couple of advantages Let's take a look. Basic slicing is very easy, and you can handle it without any problems with our PrusaControl. But sooner or later you might feel limited. And this is the time for Slic3r PE. Everyone knows filters that can stylize 2D pictures, but did you know you can do the same with 3D models? Breathe new life into your old models with one of these simple techniques. The process of machining 3D prints is called postprocessing, and in this article, we will show you all of its secrets. Once you master these techniques, you will be able to work with pretty much anything you print. Creating a 3D model just by taking lots of pictures of a real object? Have you ever thought that the infill pattern itself can be very nice to look at? In this article, we will explore an unusual use of PrusaSlicer and we will show you how to transform models with ease!

Assembly manuals

It allows to use up to five different filaments in one layer. Previously, I could do some multi-color prints by switching the filament at layer changes. This also meant that I had to be present to do the manual swap. The MMU now allows not only to swap filament on its own but also to use different filaments colors or even structural different filaments within each layer. The upgrade comes as a kit, so I had to assemble it my self. Prusa also included the upgrade to the i3 MK3 S in the bundle, which changes the construction around the hotend and the hotend fan position. Therefore, the assembly started with the disassembly of the extruder to upgrade it. All in all, it took several hours, just for the extruder before even getting to the MMU unit itself. Together I would say it took me even longer than the initial assembly of the Prusa printer last year. This might also be because the extruder took the longest time there as well and here it had to be disassembled and rebuild completely. After the extruder had been done, the MMU unit got assembled. Here I did a small mistake by cracking the selector part as I used a little bit to much force at the screws. For now, I glued it, but I will print a spare part later, just to be on the save side if it cracks again. The provided step by step guide was excellent, as usual. Just the German translation was not finished yet so I switched to the English one anyway. Even more, they got referenced in the manual quite often which always lets me smile. Some of the steps were a bit confusing in the manual as it tries to handle all possible combinations like if you already have a Prusa i3 MK2. So sometimes it might happen to hit the wrong link for the next instructions or to miss a step for your own setup. Other than that, the guide was very detailed and accurate. Another thing I don't like is the construction of the buffer at all.

Prusa I3 MK3 Multi Material Upgrade 2 (MMU2) Live Build

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