N75 valve upgrade

Anybody else done the N75 mod?

Lots of Fun. N75 Valve part number and availability. I've searched and searched and cannot find a post that lists the part number for an N75 valve. I've gotten code P, and read alot about my what I'm experiencing currently. Low Power! I want to try the N75 Valve first to see if that fixes it. Also, where can I get one from locally? Besides the dealership! Their markup is probably crazy! Also, I read somewhere that the valve is supposed to click all of the time. Mine doesn't, is this a problem? I think I just found it: 1JA? No greasecars, please. Click on username for E mail address. PMs are turned off!!! Holy crap. I work in Hunt Valley, I'm headed over there in a few minutes after I finish my sandwich. Thank you very much! I ended up not having to get a N75 valve. Before I even started my trip I decided to check everything under the hood. I found a vacuum line that was loose.

Update : Fitted 710N valve & N75J valve!!!


During the course of the S4 community tune efforts a couple other cars that tried using the tune I am helping to develop experienced over-boost on the initial ramp up. The immediate action was to lower DIMX on their tunes to try and bring the boost curve closer to what I was experiencing. This left unresolved the question of why we were seeing different boost profiles when using the same tune. As in the case of the S4 community tune the APR tune had been built on my car, and other cars would occasionally see boost overshoot on the initial boost ramp up. This was determined to be a logical cause for the over-boost seen with the other cars. After contacting the owners of the other cars involved with the S4 community tune we took photographs of our respective N75 valves and compared the setting. While this investigation is presently incomplete, it appears to be a good lead into the cause for the disparate boost ramp-up curves between my car and the other two. I dug up a spare N75 valve that I have and worked on changing the setting to try and increase the rate at which the boost ramps up. I vaguely recall that the adjustment screw may be fixed in place with loctite, because getting it to budge took some effort. After installing the N75 valve with the updated setting I took a drive and logged the boost onset. My car is now over boosting initially, unlike prior to adjusting the N75 valve. This is a great result because it will enable me to make tune changes that will hopefully produce similar outcomes amongst the three cars involved with the tuning project. N75 Valve While this investigation is presently incomplete, it appears to be a good lead into the cause for the disparate boost ramp-up curves between my car and the other two. Go to top.

N75 upgrade


Oranoco Mar 6, Log in or Sign up. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More. Dismiss Notice. Cookies Snack. Anybody else done the N75 mod? Definately seems to make the boost come in with more of a punch and it also seems to hold the boost further along the rev range before tailing off. Wondering if anybody else has done it and how they've found the effects? OranocoMar 6, It;s the approx equiv of changing to a differebt boost control vavle, H, J etc. I tried it once but couldn't shift the screw and gave up,lol. Broken ByzanMar 6, How do you remove the N75 valve? EdgeyA4Mar 6, I did it a while ago and it does work but I kept messing with it and ended up breaking it. I haven't touched the new valve since. There is a guide somewhere on the net which tells you which way gives more boost or less boost I'll see if I can find it. It's not really a guide but it does explain how it works and how to do it. What the N75 valve does Last edited: Mar 6, I have no idea as to the effect of this on a diesel engine. Absolutely do not drive with the actuator pipe off. You will lunch something expensive as it's pressure getting to the actuator that causes it to open and maintain a safe boost pressure. All pipes need to be present and correct. Modifying the N75 valve just alters the way it behaves not increasing the boost. Well i tried driving the car Just across a car park without pipe off the top of the Actuator before i saw the post about not to lol but there was No boost What so ever? At this moment in time i guess i will Double and Triple Check for boost leaks, ill take all the pipes off and check them, make sure there tight etc, as this seems to be the 1st, easiest and cheapest place to start at, If i can get the N75 off i will try adjusting the screw just to see if it helps abit, is the N75 easy to get off the car? Thanks Again.

N75 upgrade info needed.


Volkswagen 1. The 1. One way to increase the 1. Remove the stock turbo-to-intercooler pressure tube by loosening the clamps that secure it to the silicone rubber connector on top of the engine. Slide the tube out of the connector and lay it off to one side so that you have easier access to the stock N Identify the N The valve has a three-way fitting on the bottom, which has a degree rubber elbow and corrugated vacuum line connected to one side and an angled, molded-rubber line secured with a hose clamp on the other. The corrugated line is clamped to the plastic intake tube just before the flex portion. Turn the N75 to expose the round top and the wiring harness attached there. Unplug the harness. Grasp and remove the hose clamp on the bottom of the N75 where the short section of tube connects to the intake. Pull on the valve to release it. Cut the non-reusable hose clamps off the other two rubber lines using either a pair of wire cutters or a hobby-style rotary tool. Be careful not to nick the hoses. Install the new N75J J valve in the exact orientation as the old N75, with the longer of the two side-facing fittings facing toward the intake tube. Use new hose clamps to replace the non-reusable units on the two previous hoses. Re-attach those two hoses, grasp the first hose clamp with pliers to release the pressure and slip the last fitting into it. Slide the intercooler tube back into the rubber connector and tighten the hose clamp. Reconnect the wiring harness plug to your new N75J valve. This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Runs, contact us. How to Turn Up Boost on a 1. Step 1 Remove the stock turbo-to-intercooler pressure tube by loosening the clamps that secure it to the silicone rubber connector on top of the engine. Step 2 Identify the N Step 3 Grasp and remove the hose clamp on the bottom of the N75 where the short section of tube connects to the intake. Step 4 Install the new N75J J valve in the exact orientation as the old N75, with the longer of the two side-facing fittings facing toward the intake tube. Tips Only one thing keeps this upgrade from being a true stock-for-stock replacement; the wiring harness plugs into one side on the N75 and the other side on the N75J. The stock wiring harness will reach, but make sure the longer side fitting on the N75J faces the intake tube. The N75J is not only worth about 2 lb. About the Author This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.

N75 Valve Tuning Investigation

J7USS Mar 17, Log in or Sign up. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More. Dismiss Notice. Cookies Snack. Well I managed to fit my 2 valves today as they arrived from Vagparts What can I say My ride has been transformed further!! Well after research I decided to go through the "Fitting it from above" channel and yes my hands have suffered a war but well well worth it. Apart from my nosey neighbour and his stammer making a "quick word" into 20mins conversation everything went pretty well. So what did i benefit Well soon as I started the motor, It was making some funky Clicking noises, Few High Pitched frequency noises then the idle went a little weird but 20 seconds or so it sounded normal again - Phew!!!!!! Then Soon as I gave it a rev before reversing off my drive, Something felt different. One thing I did find that the old valve which I took off was already a N but I still replaced it whilst everything was off. The turbo is giving off a lovely note now, Not too loud though and has a nice discreet Suction noise. Put it this way, Im well chuffed as you might have already worked out. The drive is alot smoother, Sounds smoother too. Even the between gear changes are better and low rev turbo response is alot sharper. Dont do the odd "frog hop" anymore either. If anyone needs advice on how to fit yours I can give you a break down. Ill shut up waffling on now. J7USSMar 17, So I take it your please with the valves wonder what gave me that ideaglad theyve made an impact and yes it is something I am gonna consider, afterall its a small price apart from labour to pay for for such an improvement. Dont think I'll tackle it myself, I'll let the garage do it when cars in for a service and fan belt change next couple of months. Held boost better and with the re-map helped the car to fly. Happy days dude! These turbo parts i take it?? McgoughMar 18, Geforce will point you in the right direction with a few of his magic links!!! Been out in it today for a play, Just got to give it a blast on the Motorway now J7USSMar 18, Oh n yes the n valve is a diverter valve for your turbo, Its a revised Bosch unit. The N75J valve is what communicates with your ecu and tells the Wastegate on your turbo to stop being a tight git and give you some more boost without overdoing it I think. Is that right Gforce???? Hi Guys, The N75J valve determines how much boost is held by the diverter valve. On chipped car and even std, the increased boost needs a little more control to be smooth. The N75J not only lets the boost peak a little higher, but it also helps get rid of surging. Works very well with chipped or re-mapped cars.

Audi A3 1.8T 20V AGU stock - teste da N75J Race



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