Laser print ceramic transfer

Image Transfer on Clay Tutorials

A few years back, Doug Gray was interested in incorporating his digital photography into his clay work. So he had to find another approach to image transfer onto clay. One day he had a happy accident. He discovered that an ink jet print out, will easily transfer imagery to pottery. From there he carves in the line work and adds color with underglazes. Today, he explains his simple and kid-friendly process of image transfer onto clay. The process used here works best on soft clay and can be applied to any handbuilt or thrown clay surface provided the clay is reasonably soft. No water or solvents are needed. The same process can be used to apply imagery to leather hard and even bisqueware. We will only discuss transfers on soft clay here. You can create computer-generated imagery with a digital camera and software such as Adobe Photoshop. The key is to print your images with a water-based ink, such as that used in most inexpensive inkjet printers rather than screen printing on clay. When developing images for ink transfers on clay, the cheaper the better. I use regular ink cartridges, all-purpose or copier paper, and an inexpensive inkjet printer. If you prefer to work without a computer, see the image below for various water-based inks and their results. Or see this article from the archives on image transfer paper for ceramics. From simple trays and tiles to complex constructions, Daryl Baird shows you everything you need to know to get started and stay inspired for years. Begin with a freshly rolled slab and a print from an inkjet printer. The digital photograph used here has been altered in Photoshop, reducing the image to basic black and white line and shape. Use non-archival ink and multipurpose paper in your printer to assure that the ink will bleed when wet figure 1. Lay the image face down so that the ink comes in contact with the moist slab figure 2.

Laser Printer Image Transfers


I could use some help in solving a puzzle. I can find plenty of information on how to do polymer photo transfer but my work is not glazed and is low fire. If anybody has any suggestion as to where I can find reliable information, or even better Are you looking for a method for production work which would need to be efficient or for one of a kind work which might be labor intensive? I use stamps to imprint letters into pieces when leather hard. You could brush black paint into the stamped letters and sponge off the excess on the unstamped surface. You could also try a photocopy transfer technique on leather-hard clay. Make a high contrast mirrored image photocopy so the text is reversed. The photocopy should be white text on a black ground, so you may have to invert the colors. Most photocopiers can do this. Once you have a photocopy that is white text on a black ground, you can paint any color of underglaze you want to use into the white areas. The black areas will repel it, as the photocopier toner contains plastic that's fused to the paper. These sheets can be used once the underglaze loses its sheen, or can be dried and stored for use later. If storing for later use, you'll just need to spritz water over the paper surface and over the leather-hard clay surface you're transferring the text to. After rewetting the paper, either by spritzing or by quickly dunking into a bucket of water and allowing the excess water to drip off, gently place the paper on the clay, then smooth it out using a rubber rib. Once smoothed on, give it a minute or two, then gently peel away the paper. Excess can be removed using an X-Acto knife. The underglaze will be permanent once fired. Note: As you're not glazing it won't be shiny and may not be durable enough for outdoor installation. There's not a clip of this particular technique, but there's a clip of some of her other techniques available for previewing:. Another possibility might be to have a stamp made of the text, again, applied to the clay at the leather-hard stage see the video clip above.

How to Transfer Images to Wood Glass Fabric Metal


New customer? Create your account. Lost password? Recover password. Remembered your password? Back to login. Already have an account? Login here. First, find any image from your personal collection on your computer and print it out on the decal paper. Once the decal begins to separate from the paper backing, remove it and slide the decal on to your surface. Position the decal and blot off the excess water, and wait an hour or so for it to completely dry. A: No. The toner in HP and Canon printers contain iron, which ultimately leaves the final brown decal image. All other brands, including store brands and refill kits, will not work properly. Will that work? A: No, the printer must be black and white printing only. Color toner will not work. A: Yes. As long at the original item was microwave safe, it still will be. Q: Will this work on glass? A: Yes, the firing instructions are different, but the image will transfer to both glass and ceramic. Q: Can I apply these decals on top of any fired glaze? Q: What color are the images created with these decals? A: Once fired, the decals leave a rich sepia brown-colored image. Your email. Create your account Lost password? First name. Last name.

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This is a great way to give digital images a vintage feel. Laser print image transfers are an easy-to-make home decoration, and make great gifts. Paper Towel. Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. Cut down the laser print to fit the piece of wood that you want to work with, then tape the edges with masking tape. If you have a bone folder available, that works as an excellent burnishing tool. You will know you have sufficiently burnished the back of your piece when the paper becomes translucent. Gently peel back the paper and tape from the wood, check to see if the image has transferred. If it seems a little light, you can tape it back down, and repeat step two. Allow xylol to dry for about 10 minutes, then it is ready. That's it! Have fun, try to apply your transfers to paneling, furniture, cutting boards, whatever! It is a good idea to spray paint a layer of clear coat to the finsihed piece. Can you please help? Reply 2 years ago. Reply 4 years ago. No need to use chemicals, you can just iron the back of the paper. I wanted to suggest a less-harmful chemical alternative: Citrus Solvent. I have done that method using the back of a spoon for burnishing and it works. Though for a more vivid, less washed-out look, this is currently the best way I have figured out to do it:. Reply 3 years ago. Are there particular laser printers that are better for doing transfers? I have heard that as well. I find that the paper stock has to be particularly crummy too :P Im using a very old colored laser jet printer, but when i tried to do the same process with a color print off my offices big xerox machine, the paper wouldn't release the color, only black. So it dissolves the toner, which soaks into the wood. Then the solvent evaporates and you're left with a print. That means you can do this on any porous surface, but don't try it on metal or most plastics plastics would dissolve anyway Reply 5 years ago on Introduction. One should wear the proper gloves as another poster mentioned as the SKIN is the largest organ and absorbs all into the blood system whereby it is dispersed to do it's damage to all systems. As well the nose, lungs direct line to the limbic system of the brain all aspects are involved and the reason one feels "dizzy" the cells are dying and eventually so will it. As a person working with art's chemicals for decades, although one could take precautions often the school esp printing classes were not properly ventilated. I ended up paralyzed - these chemicals acts as both "sensitizers and anesthetizers" with multi organ damage or near failure, bleeding internally and much more and no ability to cognate ie think or form a thought. They damage all systems, enzyme systems, cells, tissues, eventually organs. I used entirely holistic means to recover but can not be around any synthetic chemicals perfumes, household products are made from same toxic classes - petro chemicals. I remembered a column by Dr. McCann on chemicals and cough variant asthma and he sent me copious information on chemical injury MCS, "Sick building syndrome - building toxic, people sick, or environmental illness - all of which overlaps many other physiological breakdowns - CFIDS, FM, so on. It is easy now to read MSDS's I know, that was my degree's research paper.

Promo Print Laser Transfer Paper

It is a very exciting time to be a ceramic artist. There is a wealth of information available to help you do virtually anything you can dream up with pots. This is especially true when it comes to image transfer. Over the years, artists have been experimenting and discovering new ways to get imagery onto pots using high-tech and low-tech methods. Line drawings or patterns with equal amounts of figure and ground are suited to this technique. Using high-contrast images with minimal large open spaces ensures that the black areas resist the application of pigment and the printed spaces are consistent in their color application. Learn more and download an excerpt! Paint the frit and stain mixture onto the white areas of your laser-printed image. Clean any stray drops with a sponge. The image can be generated through the use of copyright-free imagery, or drawings made either on paper or digitally. Many copiers have the capacity to color reverse the image making what is the black-on-white line drawing into a white-on-black image. When working with text, letters need to be mirrored in the original as the print process will be the reverse making the text readable. Apply the image to clay once the sheen disappears. Compress the back, then once the paper dries, peel it off. I use a mixture of two parts Mason stain to one part Ferro Frit I like the direct control over color that my own stain mixture provides. Water is slowly added while blending the components together with a brush or palette knife figure 1. An additional variable is the pressure on the brush. Working quickly and directly can be the most efficient form of application. If desired, apply a backing slip over the paper pattern before applying it to the clay. This creates a varied background. Loading the brush with pigment, the lines of the motif are traced, reloading as needed figure 2. The resistant properties of the toner will push the pigment away from the black areas of the image, allowing a freer hand. Any stray drops can be picked up with a sponge or dry brush. Once the sheen has left the page, the print is applied to the piece and compressed from the center outward, or from one side to the other to avoid air bubbles. Using a soft rib, the paper may be further compressed to ensure transfer. Should the clay be on the drier side, the back of the page can be dampened with a sponge and compressed again. After applying the slip, place the image onto the tile, compress, and peel the paper away. The paper is pulled up once it has dried figure 3. The versatility of this method lies in its ability to repeat an image using multiple copies, to execute fine lines, and be applied to a three-dimensional surface. In addition, with a quick hand, the page can be backed with a contrasting colored slip figures 4—5. The two techniques detailed here may also work in concert on the same piece. This is exactly what I was looking for. This will be a great help in my home remodeling.

UniNet iColor Hard Surface Transfer Media Instructions - Ceramic, Metal, Wood



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