## Boil Volume & Gravity Adjustment Calculator

I must confess, this is one homebrewing practice I have never come across. What you are describing is, however, practiced by almost every large commercial brewery in the world and is called high-gravity brewing HGB. Suppose Wizard Pale has an original gravity of 1. If I simply increase my original gravity to 1. There is more to this method than meets the eye. For starters, adding water after fermentation is tricky because you have to do some calculations to know how much to add. Too much and the beer is weaker than the target; too little and you have a stronger beer. At home if you are supposed to have five gallons of 1. The other thing about adding water to beer is that water contains oxygen. If you simply add tap or bottled water to fermented beer, you will immediately add plenty of oxygen to start beer oxidation. This is fairly easy to do at home if you have a keg. Simply boil the water and cool, keg, and carbonate it. All of this work is meant to expand your fermentation capacity. If you want to brew five gallons and have a five-gallon fermenter, this whole process is a waste of time. That is a sound practice that truly makes sense at home. I know some brewers are going to read this and get all sorts of clever ideas. So to complete the list of HGB pitfalls I must mention wort original gravity. A diluted barleywine most likely will taste just plain funky. They start with worts as high as 1. Like I said, I have never heard of homebrewers using this technique. My advice to a starting homebrewer is to ferment a full batch of wort and not add any water to your batch once fermentation begins. This will allow you to check your wort specific gravity before starting fermentation, and you are not left wondering if the beer should have tasted different because of adding too much or too little blend water.

## Dilution Calculator

Brewing beer with a high ABV can be intimidating. This article aims to offer up some easy-to-follow guidlines and procedures that can be utilized while brewing high gravity beer to reduce some of the intimidation. Browse our selection of extract and all-grain beer brewing kits! The principle of high-gravity brewing and dilution is no secret to professional brewers, but for home brewers attempting this method a few key points need to be kept in mind before starting. The dilution point: Extract brewers are familiar with dilution; virtually every extract brewer boils a concentrated wort and transfers that wort to a fermentor containing several liters of water to accelerate the cooling of the wort. More water is added later to make up the volume to the final batch size. In this article, however, I propose adding water to the finished beer, after fermentation. Only with this method of dilution can you push production capacity beyond the nominal capacity of your fermentor. Style limitations: High-gravity brewing is only practical when you are producing average- to medium-strength beers. Strong beers such as barleywines and Dopplebocks depend on all the gravity the brewer can get from the malt, and diluting these beers would be counterproductive. You can also only put so much grain in your mash tun, so you would have to produce a smaller batch with primarily the first runnings from lautering. You were probably pleasantly surprised at the flavor and character. Make no doubt about it — professional brewers can make good beer! They just seem to get carried away with their water additions. Beer can be diluted only so much before it begins to taste watered down. If we consider this range the practical limit and an extreme that most of us would wish to avoidit is easy to imagine that adding less water will have very little effect on the final product. That means that you can produce as much beer in five batches as in your last six. The water used for diluting your beer must be sterile and free from other unwanted elements, including chlorine, oxygen, and possibly minerals. You can prepare your own water at home by boiling and cooling it in advance. Any oxygen in the water will oxidize compounds in the finished beer, shortening shelf life and leading to off-flavors.

## OG too high, how much water do I add?

High Gravity Brewing or Blending is a technique that allows you to brew a larger end-batch volume without buying larger fermentation equipment. A higher specific gravity beer strong beer is first fermented and then blended with water to create a lower alcohol beer with less IBUSRM and final gravity than the originally fermented beverage. High-gravity brewing or blending is used by some of the big US brewers. Stereotypically this technique is used for beers like American Pilsners. Of course, virtual gravity means the beer measured Then, you brew the beer at the smaller volume with all the extra gravity from the increased ingredients. Calculating how much to expand the recipe is easy. Simply divide the larger volume of target beer you wish to end up with by the smaller volume of strong beer you are actually boiling and fermenting. There is a drawback to this simple formulation, in that hop utilization slightly decreases at higher wort gravities. Esters and higher alcohols, byproducts of fermentation, are produced at non-linearly higher rates in more dense worts than in less dense ones. Taking into effect the higher specific gravity and lower hop utilization, you are going to want to brew your base beer as you would brew any beer and ferment it to completion. You have to have a good base beer to produce a good final blended beer. At higher dilution rates, you may also need to tinker with your recipe a bit to get the beer to taste as you want it. Above this gravity and the resulting blended lager is too estery. Under most normal circumstances, water has some oxygen dissolved in it. This amount decreases at higher temperatures. Oxygen will cause the beer to go stale faster than it normally would, resulting in cardboard-like aromas or sherry-like flavors. So, you need to remove the oxygen from your dilution water. My technique is very simple. I will use my latest Mild batch as a example to explain the rest. Mashed over a 2 hour time frame waiting on the sparge water to heat in my E-HLT with 8. I slowly opened my bottom-center drain valve and sparged into my lauter grant. The valve is opened more and more as the vorlauf is started. The wort is then recirculated until running clear out of the mash tun. I then drained the tun to my kettle completely and turned on the valve to fill the mash tun again with my remaining sparge water. I started my boil as always and everything else went to the usual routine. I ended up with 12 gallons once I was finished boiling. I didn't take gravity at this point because it wouldn't have mattered anyway during this experimental batch. I had pre-boiled some filtered water on the stove, inside the house earlier. I left it covered to drop to room temperature before adding it to the boil kettle right before cooling. I try to get down to pitching temperature as fast as I can, and do so in about 20 minutes running very litle cooling water through the Therminator plate chiller. Aeration came from a Venturi Device placed in-line during the chilling recirculation back to the kettle. I do this for energy reasons, but the pint is it gets chilled. Now, comes the part that differs from most people.

## Make More Beer in Less Space with High Gravity Brewing!

Brew your best beer EVER. Use code 5OFF. Brewer's Friend Home Brewing Software. Welcome Guest! Login Sign Up. Want no ads? Go Premium and unlock all our brewing tools! Dilution and Boil Off Gravity Calculator. Calculates how much you need to dilute or boil down your wort volume to hit a certain gravity. Helps you hit the correct wort volume and target gravity for your home brewed beer! There are two ways to look at this, which is why there are two calculators below. Notes: Reports the new volume in the same units the current volume was provided in. If the new volume is above the current volume, top off with water only use water you know is from a clean source, such as bottled spring water, water you prepared in advance. Tap water is okay, but often contains a little chlorine which you may notice in your beer. If the new volume is below the current volume, boil the wort to evaporate some of the current volume. Thanks for using our calculator. You might be interested in the Complete Recipe Builder. Recipes can be saved, printed, shared, and brewed for complete record keeping.