Dr650 engine

Adventure Modifications

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DR650 Engine / Transmission Rebuild

The DRSE engine has an outstanding reputation for long, trouble-free service life. Of course, it should go without saying that proper maintenance is the key to that longevity, and Suzuki's engineers have made your life easy in that regard. The DR is a remarkably friendly bike to work on, generally. It's also a well designed, low-stressed engine, with an excellent lubrication system. We don't want to scare you off but even the best engineered mechanical devices can have issues in assembly and design. The DR is no exception. Suzuki did a great job with the DR but over the years certain items have surfaced in a repeating pattern. We will cover those items and let you know what years the issues affect below. Note: Starting in year model Suzuki has started using threadlocker on these screws! Better late than never right? Suzuki has recently started installing a countershaft seal retainer on their later model DR machines to address this known issue. Sign In Don't have an account? Start a Wiki. Nothing's perfect, though Loosen them when the engine is at full operating temperature! If you are planning on doing a valve adjustment crack the plug loose the night before. It is held in place by two screws. There are very rare instances where these screws have backed out and fallen into the engine. I'm sure everyone can imagine the carnage if one of those screws managed to bounce between a connecting rod and a crankshaft lobe at rpm. Now throw in the image of hot oil spilling out of your engine all over the rear tire at 70 mph as the engine locks up. Not pleasant. Clearly, this is a worst-case scenario, but you get the idea. The extremely rare cases where these screws fall out seem to happen to higher mileage bikes, but that's certainly no guarantee. There is one possible warning sign. The fix requires removing the engine cover, appling threadlock and re-tightening the screws.

The Myth of DR650 Reliability?

Discussion in ' Thumpers ' started by rchMar 14, Log in or Join. Adventure Rider. Dismiss Notice. Become a site supporter for a free shirt and ad free viewing. Removing the clutch allowed me to see the issue. The output shaft bearing is toast. There were small pieces of it in the bottom of the cases. So far, I have not found any other signs of damage. The PO said he shut down the bike soon after hearing the noises, thankfully! I have taken down the engine as far as I can without a rotor removal tool which I ordered from ProCycle. I can't see if there are any issues with gears yet but I thought I'd come here and ask a few questions: 1. Since I am splitting the cases, should I just replace all the bearings and seals, or only what I need? What do I use to clean the components with, like the clutch plates, to ensure I get rid of all the metallic soaked oil? Should I use something different for the cases than I do the valve cover? Should I replace all the screws like the ones holding the neutral safety switch with stainless allen bolts? A few of them I will have to replace. Blue loctite? How far should I take the rebuild since I have the entire motor apart? What should I know that I don't? Where's the best place to buy parts? I will post up some pics in a few and will continue to take them along the way for anyone interested in killing time looking at them! Joined: Nov 19, Oddometer: 6, Location: N. Also how many miles on the engine? I usually use varsol to clean up the cases and parts I never use loctite on case screws but some people do I do use loctite inside on such things as the shift support mechanisms and anything that holds a moving working part in place What do you know? ADV Sponsors. Something is missing here! What could it be?

Potential problems to be aware of

With a glance at the DR S from Suzuki and you might just dismiss it as an enduro bike. That would be doing it an injustice. When I mentioned that I was looking at the DRS, two comments that folks made over and over was it has a small fuel tank and the seat sucks. For the price, if you have to throw on some accessories to make it your own, you are still getting an inexpensive ride. The bike has no electronics, which is a double-edged sword. Seat height is a lofty Suzuki has an accessories kit to drop the seat 1. The DRS definitely weighs in at the bottom of the range for true dual-sport machines at pounds, wet. A single-downtube, double-cradle frame made from tubular stock with a rectangular downtube gets things started in the right light? Not quite the same as a proper skidplate available as an accessorybut better than nothing, and certainly a better arrangement than a stressed-engine frame design that leaves the engine well exposed and vulnerable to terrain strikes. Stock ground clearance is Suspension height at both ends may be lowered through the use of an accessories kit, necessarily with a concurrent reduction in seat height and ground clearance. The suspension itself is definitely set up with true off-road work in mind, and the DRS is not a soccer-mom equivalent. Suspension travel is right at In an effort to increase the effectiveness of the suspension, Suzuki runs lightweight brake discs and hollow axles to help keep unsprung weight to a minimum, and reduce the amount of work the shocks have to do in order to keep the wheels on the ground. A twin-piston front caliper binds a mm front disc, not exactly the biggest disc available, but rather large by off-road standards. I expect this is to provide adequate braking effort on paved roads with greater available traction than you find on the dirt, and this keeps the DR from being just a dressed-up dirt bike. Another dual-pot caliper acts on the mm rear disc to complete the brakes, and the lack of ABS or brake-linking keeps the operation simple and honest. At 21 inches, the front wheel is definitely sized for serious off-road riding where large diameter front wheels are desirable, and arguably necessary. A inch rim brings up the rear, and both wheels run an aluminum rim and hub with stainless-steel spokes.

Suzuki DR650

The Suzuki DR is a long-standing model in Suzuki's lineup, introduced in as a replacement for the DR model. It has a 13 L fuel tank. This kit provides some much needed protection for both you and your big DR. Handguards and deflectors protect your hands while the skid plate and Case Armor will cover your baby's soft externals. Yes, plastic! This is a product from our friends at Acerbis. Ultra tough injection molded reinforced composite. It's twice as thick as a metal skid plate but is only half the weight. Plastic glides over rocks and roots better than aluminum. It also reflects less engine noise. Full coverage, mounts to existing threaded holes at the rear of the frame. These plates are made from 4mm thick aluminum because the extreme abrasion and impact resistance for the full weight of the bike and the rider. This means no more trying to hold clamps in place when you take you skid plate off for oil changes or cleaning. Easy off, easy on. All necessary hardware is included in the kit. The plate has foam or rubber wherever there is contact with the frame. This is one of the toughest skid plates we've got. The rear mounting bolts are fully recessed for protection. A welded block protects the bolt heads from being bashed and rounded from obstructions. Rubber isolators between the plate and the frame at these two bolt locations help to eliminate vibrations and keep noise down. Front mounts clamp around the frame for a solid connection. The right side of the plate extends up to cover the oil filter and unbolts from the skid plate for easy filter changes. This skid plate has a black textured powder coat finish for great looks and durability. Includes stainless steel hardware. Pat Walsh Designs have improved their skid plates. Now with features such as a rubber dampened rear mount for vibration reduction and shock absorption, improved access to the oil drain plug, enlarged and reshaped side wings for increased protection with reduced sound reflection. Button head bolts are used so they won't hang up on rocks and logs. Simple to install and easy to remove when needed. Baseplate includes side protectors that wrap around the engine case to provide both bottom and side protection. CNC machined from 2mm plate, these will protect your cases in the event of a bad spill.

DR650 790 installation review

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